INDONESIA - KERINCI GUNUNG TUJUH
The Barokah Bersama Cooperative is responsible for this Anaerobic Natural lot are trying to add to the country’s rich tradition by diversifying the coop's processing methods. This innovative lot applies anaerobic natural processing for a boozy, fruity cup profile.
VARIETAL: Andung Sari & Sigarar Utang
PROCESSING: Anaerobic Natural
ALTITUDE: 1,400 to 1,700 meters above sea level
PRODUCER: Koerintji Barokah Bersama
REGION: Gunung Tujuh, Kerinci, Sumatra
TASTING NOTES: Mango, Blackberry, Dark Chocolate
Andung Sari & Sigarar Utang are native varieties from Indonesia developed by the Indonesian Coffee & Cocoa Research Institute (ICCRI).
As a result of a cross with Caturra, this dwarf varietal is famous for its excellent cupping profiles with clean and rich intensity.
ABOUT THE PRODUCERS
The 320 members of the Koerintji Barokah Bersama Cooperative live and farm on a plateau that sits at the foot of Mount Kerinci on the island of Sumatra. Mount Kerinci is one of the many volcanoes in the Pacific Ring of Fire, a 40,000-kilometer horseshoeshaped series of 452 volcanoes that are part of an almost constant dance of eruptions and plate movements. Mount Kerinci’s historic eruptions have assured that the surrounding area is lush and verdant with a deep supply of fertile volcanic soil.
The cooperative is managed by Triyono, who leads members in processing and roasting their own coffees. They have a fully outfitted roasting facility, including a cupping lab, next to the dry mill.
Almost all farms on Sumatra are small. On average, farms are between 0.5 to 2.5 hectares. Coffee is usually the primary cash crop for farmers, but most also intercrop their trees alongside vegetables, potatoes and fruit. This intercropped produce will
make up a substantial part of the family’s diet for the year.
In addition to growing coffee as a cash crop, many smallholder farmers also work as hired laborers at nearby tea plantations. Like coffee, tea is a huge cash crop in the area. The bigger tea plantations are often near coffee farms. When the coffee harvest is finished, coffee farmers will go there and pick tea leaves under contracted labor.
HARVEST & POST-HARVEST
During the harvest season, coffee is handpicked. Usually, most labor is supplied by the immediate family.
After picking, the coffee will be delivered to a UPH collection center. A UPH is a collection center where coffee cherries are purchased by the cooperative and where the coffee is processed before moving it to the central mill. Essentially, a UPH functions as a small washing station. Triyono oversees the activities on
and around the nine UPH stations owned by the cooperative. To streamline the operation, there is an agriculturalist providing technical assistance to make sure the same procedures are used to process cherry at each of the different stations. Each UPH is located in a different area and receives cherries from different farmer groups.
With this Anaerobic Natural lot, coffee is first floated and separated by density before being laid on raised beds where workers remove underripes, overripes and damaged cherry. Then, ripe cherry is collected again and sealed in airtight, 20kg plastic bags that are stored in a cool, dry location (with temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius) for 7 days.
After 7 days, cherry is again laid on raised beds to dry. The beds are located in domes that protect the coffee from rain or harsh sunlight. The parchment will dry here for around 20 to 23 days. When dry, the coffee is milled and sorted by hand.
COFFEE IN INDONESIA
Indonesia has a long coffee producing history, but recently their coffees have been overlooked by the specialty market.
Indonesia is perhaps best known for its unique wet hulling process (giling basah). Though its exact origins are unclear, wet hulling most likely originated in Aceh during the late 1970s. Wet hulling’s popularity can be attributed to producers’ need for prompt payments. It was also adopted specifically by many producers who lacked
the drying infrastructure that was needed to shelter drying parchment from the high humidity and inconsistent rainfall typical in Sumatra. At higher elevations with constant humidity and unpredictable rainfall, drying can prove to be slow, risky and difficult.